Brugnoli hits 89% bio-based content in cycling fabric with new Lycra fibre

A new Italian-made performance fabric contains 89% bio-based materials, and its makers say that figure would have sounded impossible in technical sportswear just a few years ago. The Br4/E1 fabric is the centrepiece of PaceSetter, a three-way project launched by mill Brugnoli, The Lycra Company and premium cycling apparel brand Pissei.

The fabric combines two renewable inputs at the fibre level. EVO bio-based polyamide, supplied by Fulgar, derives entirely from castor and corn feedstocks. Renewable Lycra fibre, the newer of the two, contains 70% bio-derived content sourced from industrial corn. According to the companies, the materials can cut climate change impact by up to 45% against conventional alternatives — a claim buyers will want traced to a verified lifecycle assessment before it lands in any sustainability report.

What does the fabric actually deliver?

Performance claims sit alongside the environmental ones. The fabric offers high compression, muscle support, rapid drying, breathability and odour control, plus UV50+ protection and resistance to degradation from heat and prolonged sun exposure. Brugnoli developed it using its internationally patented Br4 technology, which the company has spent more than a decade refining.

The production process matters too. Dyeing and finishing on Br4/E1 consume 20% less water and energy than conventional methods, according to Brugnoli. For sourcing teams benchmarking mills on process efficiency, that's a measurable line item rather than a marketing flourish.

The Renewable Lycra fibre used here is a bio-based version of Lycra Xtra Life, a technology already recognised for durability and resistance to degradation. Its inclusion is designed to hold the performance characteristics demanded by sportswear while lifting renewable raw material content.

Who is wearing it?

Pissei has built a complete cycling kit from the new materials. The shorts use Br4/E1 at 89% bio-based content. The ultralight short-sleeved jersey uses Brugnoli's Br4/02 CO PLUS fabric, weighing 110 g/m² with 76% bio-based materials, incorporating Lycra fibre and the same patented Br4 technology.

The brand supplies World Tour cycling teams including UAE Team Emirates XRG and UAE Team ADQ, giving the fabric immediate exposure at the top tier of competitive cycling. Massimiliano Denna, CEO of Brugnoli Giovanni, noted Pissei had worked with Brugnoli technologies for several years and knows how to turn advanced textile developments into garments for that level.

"For more than ten years we have worked to live up to our claim 'Zero compromises between environment and performance'," Denna said. "With the collaboration of The Lycra Company and its latest innovation, Renewable Lycra fibre, we can now present Br4/E1 and reach a level of bio-based content that a few years ago seemed unthinkable in a high-performance technical fabric."

Where is it made?

The project runs entirely through Italy's integrated supply chain. Brugnoli manufactures its fabrics at its facilities in Sacconago, near Busto Arsizio, while Pissei produces the finished garments at its headquarters in Agliana, Tuscany. For European brands shortening supply chains or weighing nearshoring options, PaceSetter is a working example of a fibre-to-garment chain contained within one country.

"For Pissei, innovation means turning materials research into a concrete advantage for every cyclist," said Filippo Quagli, CEO of Pissei. "With Br4/E1 and the new Renewable Lycra fibre we can give shape to this vision, combining compression, comfort and freedom of movement with a more conscious choice of raw materials."

The Lycra Company frames the collaboration as proof of the commercial potential of its Renewable Lycra technology, particularly for brands wanting more bio-based content without giving up durability, fit or performance. "Brugnoli has consistently shown this spirit, turning innovative ideas, such as our new Renewable Lycra fibre, into fabrics capable of inspiring the most demanding brands," said Ettore Manfrotto, Senior Strategic Account Manager, Brand & Retail at The Lycra Company.

What's next on the calendar?

The project debuted at Performance Days in Munich on 13–14 October and moves to Functional Fabric Fair in Portland, Oregon, on 27–28 October. For sportswear sourcing teams attending either fair, the decision this news forces is straightforward: whether to trial bio-based fabrics at this content level now, or wait to see whether Renewable Lycra scales beyond demonstration projects into volume programmes.